When you open the template, the file will be at a pre set canvas size and DPI, do not change this or crop it down as it could cause issues with the measurements being accurate.
As you work on your design, try and use up as much of the space on the canvas as possible. We like the files nice, big, and chunky. At this point in the process, don’t worry about using the brush pack as that is just for checking designs when at size. For now, stick to a nice full opacity hard edged brush like the Studio pen.
As you work, try and keep things organized like we mentioned in the A Beginners Guide to File Types and File Organization blog post. Keep all your key components on individual layers like the below example.
Organizing your art like this makes it easier for us when we are translating your art to vector format and also makes it easier for you to go back and edit area that may need some fixing after we check our minimum specs. Layers are life, embrace them!
After you have your design drawn out, it’s time to check and make sure all your fill areas and cutout areas will work while your design is at size. The first thing we need to do is export a copy of our art as a flat image (do not merge the layers).
Wrench Icon → Share → PNG (in the share image section) → Save Image
Next up, we need to create a new canvas in procreate so that we can scale our art to size. In order to do this we need to go back to the main procreate screen, hit the little ‘+’ sign and then hit the little black icon with a ‘+’ to the right of ‘New Canvas’. This should open up a new screen where we can input all of our important information.
In the dialog that pops up, click on the measurements and change them to reflect the size you want your physical pin to be. For my design, I was aiming for 1.75” so that is what I set my width and height to. Set yours to whatever size pin you are aiming for. Next, make sure your DPI is 300, this is very important. Your DPI needs to match the template DPI exactly or else the measurement checks will be off when we import the art back into the template.
After your canvas is made, import the flat png we saved of our pin design and scale it to fit tightly within the canvas.
Wrench Icon → Add → Insert Photo → Select the PNG → Scale if needed
We want the design to take up as much space as it can before it gets cut off, like the example below:
Now that we have our pin scaled to size, we need to import it back into our template.
Wrench Icon → Add → Copy (this will copy your active layer, which should be the artwork)
Go back to the Procreate main screen and open up your original art file in the Alchemy Template again, then paste in the newly sized pin version.
Wrench Icon → Add → Paste
(Make sure not to mess with the size and paste it as is on it’s own layer. I like to place mine near the info key with the little circles)
Now that we have a copy of our pin to scale, we can use the brush pack included with the template to check all our specs! All of the brushes are custom made and set from the get go at the minimum size required for each element. Do not resize the brushes as these are just meant for checking art and not designing the art.
Create a new layer, choose the brush you need and a bright color not in your artwork, and then tap it on your canvas to make a circle. The circle should be the same size or near the same size as the circles in the key on the template. You can then take that circle that you drew and drag it around to the different areas in your art to make sure that the spaces are large enough.
In my case, I had to check if the cut-outs I wanted were possible (left image) along with some of my more narrow color fill spaces (right image).
After checking the cutout areas I was able to see that they were way too small and it was better to just fill them in with metal instead. As for the enamel fill, most of my areas were fine but there was a small spot on the hand that is borderline being too thin for fill. Now knowing this, I can better gauge how to adjust the artwork on the larger file to fix these spots.
Make the changes needed to the larger layered artwork, and keep checking until you are good!
NOTE: If your art is more complex with a lot of colors, you can always start checking specs usng just the linework (metal layer) and then go in and add your colors after.
You are almost done! After you’ve made all your edits, got your layers sorted ( remember, don’t merge), you are now good to export your file as a PSD.
Wrench Icon → Share → PSD → Save to Files / Airdrop / Drive
Exporting as a PSD can be a little wonky on Procreate depending on where you are exporting the file to.
If you try and export it directly to email, 9 out of 10 times it’s going to be a hot mess. PSD files tend to be on the larger size, and when trying to export directly to email a lot of times it gets auto converted to a JPEG or the file gets severely compressed to fit within the size limit.
The best thing to do is to export the file to your device itself, or something like google drive. If you have a mac you can also choose to airdrop it directly to your computer. Then send an email and manually attach the file. If the file is too large you can use a free file sharing service such as WeTransfer.com and shoot us the link to the download.
By doing this, you prevent the file from forcefully being compressed or converted and all your layers should be intact and good to go for vectoring!
Now you’re all set and ready to go! We hope this helps you out even just a little. I look forward to seeing everybody's designs!
Looking into moving over from just digital and traditional art prints to another tangible medium like enamel pins can be, for the lack of better word, ‘ overwhelming’ when you are first dipping your toes in. It’s a lot of information coming at you from all angles at once, and it’s alright to be a bit lost at first.
It’s normal, I promise!
Remember, we were all new at one point. My very first foray into pins was also here at Alchemy and resulted in an almost 100 message long email thread with our owner Greg and him walking me through the process. So don’t be afraid to reach out to us and ask questions, there is no such thing as a stupid question in the pursuit of knowledge!
One of the first hurdles that I myself and a lot of fellow artists also have in the beginning is understanding the sort of file type to submit along with how to format the file itself.
The short of it is, vector files will always be not only the preferred file type but industry standard across the board. Don’t worry though if you are unable to provide this type of file, we’ll cover that shortly.
Why a vector file?
This is because vector files unlike their raster counterparts can be scaled and manipulated losslessly. Need the art 2” for a pin but 5ft for a banner? No problem with a vector. This is because vectored art is composed of many points, lines, and curves that are formed and defined by mathematical equations to form what you see on the screen. When you scale or edit a vector file you are actually altering and manipulating the math behind the image to form new points vs stretching a static art. Fun fact. If you copy and paste a vector from something like AI and try to paste it - you get a bunch of jumbled numbers and code instead of a picture.
Now that we understand a little more about the reasoning behind why one file is preferred over another - it’s important to note that we understand not everybody has the ability or the appropriate software to create their own vectors. This is 100% okay and no cause for alarm. I didn’t even know what a vector was when I first started. Adobe Illustrator? Sorry, I don’t know her.
Don’t worry, all hope is not lost! We got you! As long as you are able to provide us with a nice large raster file we can usually get a vector made and set up for you without any problems. In fact, the majority of art we tend to get in is not already vectored, so have no fear!
As a fellow artist, who started out as a client with no prior experience, I wanted to share my top 3 tips to set you up for success when submitting your work in raster form to make your life a little easier and less stressful.
Bigger is always better when it comes to files.
Keep it clean!
Layers are life! Resist the urge to flatten!
Understanding Enamel Pin Art Design
Designing the art for an enamel pin is not just about drawing a picture and turning it into a pin(although we have ways to break the rules). It's about understanding the intricacies of pin design, including size limitations, color selections, and production processes. Creating a pin begins with a solid concept that can effectively translate to the small canvas that pins provide. A well-designed pin reflects a story or idea that resonates with people, prompting them to wear it with pride.
Brainstorming Your Pin Idea
The first step in creating your enamel pin is brainstorming an idea that is both unique and personal. Think about what you want your pin to represent: your brand, personal art, a cause, an inside joke, or simply a beautiful design that speaks to aesthetic pleasure. This process might involve sketching out multiple ideas, seeking inspiration from existing artwork, or even crowdsourcing opinions from potential customers or fans.
Sketching Preliminary Designs
Once you have a few ideas, it's time to put pencil to paper or stylus to tablet. Sketching preliminary designs allows you to explore different compositions and elements that will make your pin stand out. It's important to remember that the fine details of a sketch may not always be feasible in a pin format, so creating bold, recognizable features is key.
Choosing a Theme for Your Pin
A cohesive theme ties your design together and gives it purpose. Whether you opt for vintage chic, modern minimalism, or cartoon fun, your theme will inform every subsequent decision, from the color palette to the finish of your pin. Determining Size and Shape The size and shape of your pin affect not only the visual impact but also the cost of production. Most pins range from half an inch to two inches in any dimension. The shape, while important aesthetically, must also be practical for manufacturing. Do you want your pin to be worn often or is it meant to enter someone’s collection and be displayed? A 2.5” pin would be hard to wear, but works for collectors, whereas a 1.5” pin is more sensible for a daily wearer.
Selecting Colors and Shades
Color selection is critical in enamel pin design. You'll want to choose colors that not only look great together but also represent your design accurately when translated from digital hues to physical enamel. Considering the Pantone color system can help ensure accuracy during production. At Alchemy, we choose from Pantone Solid Coated and Pantone Pastels books. For most clients who do not own a physical pantone book, we select what looks to be the closest matches for you.
Balance and Composition in Pin Design
A well-composed pin design is visually pleasing and well-balanced. The arrangement of elements within the design should guide the eye and make the pin interesting from various angles.
Drawing Techniques for Pin Art
Illustrating for enamel pins can be different from other art forms because of the need for clarity in small sizes. Outlining techniques, solid colors, and the use of bold lines can make your design more legible and impactful.
Digital Art Software for Enamel Pins
Alchemy can help translate your high resolution art from all major art software. We ultimately make a vector file for production, so Adobe Illustrator is great, but if you design on a tablet in Procreate, or in Adobe Photoshop, we can use those files as well. As long as it’s a good sized file, it’ll work and we will translate it to vector for you.
Translating Art into Pin Format
Converting your artwork into a format suitable for enamel pin production may require simplifying details and making sure that all lines are closed so the pin molds can be created accurately. Pins use a casted mold and have set static minimums. The smaller your pin is, the less small details can be used.
Ensuring Legible Details
When working with a compact medium like enamel pins, it's essential to ensure that every element of your design is distinguishable. This might mean having to increase line widths or alter tiny details to prevent them from getting lost during the manufacturing process.
Contrast and Visibility in Small Formats
High contrast in your design will improve the visibility of its details. This involves choosing colors that stand apart from each other and using them to define and enhance different parts of your design.
Choosing the Right Materials
The choice of materials for your enamel pin — from the type of metal to the enamel itself — can greatly influence its look and feel. Picking the right metal for your pin is very important. Although gold metal may be popular, if most of your colors are yellows in ink, gold would result in very low contrast.
Understanding the Production Process
Pins go through a handful of separate steps that are mostly done by hand. Although they are a custom manufactured product, they should be viewed as a handmade item. There is no machine that pumps out a final product. Variances within an order is to be expected from the human element, but that is what also makes them so unique.
Ways to Step Up the Final Product for Retail and Enhance Your Branding
The final presentation of your pin can make a big difference. Backing cards and packaging not only protect your pin but also offer additional space for branding and design. We can add your cards into retail holes bags for displaying in retail stores, add a upc sticker if provided for amazon sales and make your pin ready for stores. A very popular way to upgrade your pins is to add a back stamp in metal. We can take your logo and add it onto the back of every pin you make for a one time $40 fee. It creates a mold for your logo that can be used across multiple designs. This is a fundamental step when transitioning from hobbyist to a brand.
Ways to Kick Down the Walls of Pin Designing
UV printing has come onto the scene as a new way to take all of the old rules of pin making and throw them out the window. We can print in high resolution directly onto the metal and with full colors, including gradients. These aren’t your fuddy duddy offset printed promotional pins, they are high quality, retail ready and look amazing. Huge brands, such as Disney have started using UV a lot. It’s taking over the old way of adding screen printed additional colors.
Washi tape, the colorful and versatile paper tape that has taken the crafting world by storm, is not only for scrapbook enthusiasts and avid crafters. This decorative tape, originating from Japan, is celebrated for its vibrant patterns and its ability to stick to a variety of surfaces without leaving a residue.
If you are looking to make your own washi, Alchemy offers full color cmyk washi, washi with foil (gold,silver, rainbow) and even acrylic stands for holding washi!
Crafting Homemade Cards and Gift Wrap
For those who enjoy giving gifts with a personal touch, washi tape can be used to add flair to homemade cards or to create custom gift wrap. Simple brown kraft paper can be made into something special with a few strips of washi tape.
Personalizing Stationery
Washi tape can transform ordinary stationery into personalized items. Wrap your pens and pencils, decorate notebook edges, or use it as a makeshift label on binders and folders. The ability to write on washi tape also means you can use it to label your stationery with your name or subject titles.
Every Single Thing in Your House
If you ask my 6 year old what washi is used for, it's limitless. Water bottles, on her table, as a hair tie, earrings, to wrap on our dogs tail....you name it. Put on your imagination cap from when you were young and you can use washi for almost anything.
Wall Art and Decor
Due to its easy-to-remove nature, washi tape is excellent for creating temporary wall art. Whether it’s geometric patterns, abstract shapes, or outlines of animals and objects, washi tape allows you to turn your walls into a canvas without the commitment of paint.
Customizing Electronics
Laptops, phone chargers, and earbuds are items we use every day that can easily get mixed up with others. Using washi tape to wrap or decorate these electronics not only makes them unique but also makes them easily identifiable.
Organizing Cables
Keep cables organized by wrapping different washi tapes around each cord. This not only makes them more aesthetically pleasing but also allows you to quickly identify which cable belongs to which device.
Scrapbooking and Journaling
A staple in the scrapbooking and journaling community, washi tape is used to embellish pages, highlight dates, and create borders. It’s also handy for sticking photos and notes to pages without the permanence of glue.
DIY Bookmarks
Craft your own bookmarks by folding a piece of washi tape over the edge of a page and cutting it into a shape or design. It’s a creative and non-damaging way to keep your place in books and planners.
Decorating Plant Pots
Plain plant pots can get an instant makeover with some strategically placed washi tape. It's a simple and reversible way to add color and pattern to your indoor garden.
Beautifying Light Switch Covers
Light switch and outlet covers can be bland. With washi tape, you can quickly style them to match the theme of your room or to add a pop of color and pattern.
Enhancing Picture Frames
Give a new life to old picture frames with washi tape. You can cover the entire frame or add accents to complement the photo or artwork within.
Calendar Customization
Make your own wall or desk calendar with washi tape to mark the days and weeks. This can be particularly useful for visual planners who like a physical representation of their schedule.
Tailoring Keyboard Keys
For a fun project, apply washi tape to your computer’s keyboard keys for a burst of color every time you type.
Sealing Envelopes
Instead of using plain clear tape, seal envelopes with a piece of washi tape for an extra touch of personality and charm.
Party Decor
Create flags for straws, cupcake toppers, or placemarkers for seating arrangements with washi tape. It’s a quick and cost-effective way to add theme-consistent decoration to any party.
Washi tape’s wide range of patterns and its easy-to-use nature make it an excellent tool for quick and creative projects. From decorating your workspace to personalizing daily-used items, washi tape provides an avenue for creativity without the hassle of mess and permanence. Try incorporating washi tape into your next project and watch as it brings color and joy to your creation.
]]>Introduction to Custom Pins
Custom pins have become a staple in the world of artist's personal expression, promotional items, and fashion. From corporate events to personal collections, the versatility and appeal of custom pins are undeniable. As experts in creating bespoke pins, we delve into the intricacies of design, production, and practical uses, ensuring that our readers are equipped with knowledge to make informed decisions and create pins that stand out.
Designing Your Custom Pins: A Step-by-Step Approach
Understanding Pin Types and Materials
Before diving into the design process, it's essential to select the appropriate type of pin for your needs. Enamel pins come in various forms such as soft enamel, which offers a textured finish, or hard enamel for a smooth, polished surface. For those seeking a vintage look, die-struck pins or 3D molded pins might be the right choice.
Crafting the Perfect Design
Creating a captivating design is at the heart of a successful custom pin. We recommend starting with a clear concept that aligns with your brand or personal aesthetic. Consider elements such as color palettes, typography, and imagery that resonate with your intended audience. Utilize bold lines and contrasting colors for visibility, and don't forget to account for the size of the pin—details should be discernible even at smaller dimensions.
Production Process: From Concept to Reality
Step-by-Step Manufacturing
1. Artwork and Mold Creation: Our detailed process begins with transforming your design into a production-ready artwork, followed by crafting a custom mold.
2. Base Material Cutting and Shaping: Selected metals are cut and shaped according to the mold, forming the foundation of your pin.
3. Attachment and Polishing: Post-shaping, the attachment pieces are soldered, and the pins are polished to ensure a smooth surface for further processing.
4. Coloring and Baking: Enamel colors are carefully applied by hand, then baked to harden and set the enamel.
5. Final Touches: A final inspection for quality assurance precedes the application of any additional coatings or finishes.
Practical Uses for Custom Pins
Personal Expression and Collections - Merch for your retail store + Shows
For individuals, custom pins allow for personal expression, and are the perfect vehicle to showcase your artistic perspective. Collectors also find joy in acquiring limited edition pins or those from different cultures and creators. They are priced low enough and with high margins, making the perfect online item and for selling at live events and cons.
Corporate Branding and Marketing
Custom pins serve as powerful tools for corporate branding, capable of conveying your brand's essence in a compact form. Hand them out at trade shows, include them in welcome packages, or use them as recognition awards for employees.
Event Souvenirs and Fundraising
Events, whether they be concerts, festivals, or fundraisers, can leverage custom pins as memorable takeaways that carry the event's spirit long after its conclusion. They also function as excellent merchandise for raising awareness and funds for causes.
Ensuring Your Custom Pins Stand Out
Unique Presentation Ideas
To ensure your pins make a lasting impression, consider innovative presentation options. Custom backing cards with your design or message, elegant velvet pouches, or eco-friendly packaging can enhance the unboxing experience.
Social Media Integration
Embrace the power of social media by creating a campaign around your custom pins. Encourage recipients to share photos of their pins online with a dedicated hashtag to increase visibility and engagement.
Crafting custom pins that captivate and communicate your message is an art form and Alchemy is here to help you achieve your goals. From the initial design to the final production, each step is vital to creating a product that not only looks great but also serves its intended purpose effectively. Your pins are not just another item, but a statement and representation of your brand.
Check out all of the amazing pin options available and please reach out to us with any questions about your project.
]]>When you start a brand, the dream of getting into stores is often at the top of the list of goals and jumping into wholesale too early can cause more problems than it’s worth. Below are some tips and questions to ask yourself to determine if you are ready. There’s a big difference between a random wholesale account and making a push with your brand into retail.
Are you selling enough online consistently where you can afford taking a reduced price on inventory?
Wholesale pricing most often is 50% off of your retail price. If you are selling a pin for $10 online, a store may only want to pay $5. You can move more product, quickly, which in turn can help fuel larger runs that reduce your cost and increase your margins. But, can you afford to do it and still make enough money doing so? Building direct sales through your online store or at events is key to establish first because if your store is supporting healthy margins through direct sales to customers, it's much easier to take a smaller amount in trade for a higher volume.
Are you capable of re-printing a design easily when you need to?
As you’ve probably learned, regardless of how much you try to attempt guessing the perfect inventory levels for product, it doesn't always work out perfectly. You should be at a point financially with the brand to be able to easily send a reprint order over to be made without it breaking the bank. You need to be able to handle ordering quickly if a design gets low or sold out to fulfill the orders.
Do you have a solid group of proven designs to offer wholesale that have shown that they continue to sell well over time?
The best approach to wholesale when you start is to have a selected group of best sellers to offer. These should be the designs that tend to outsell all of the others. Whatever designs you choose, you are committing to keeping those in stock for a while. In the clothing industry, it often goes by season, but if apparel accessories are what you sell, a store won't be happy to not be able to restock an item that is selling well for them. When I was selling shirts, I'd have around 30 designs I committed to keeping in stock for the season, but allowed any store to buy from my current inventory of new products or items not listed in my catalog.
Are you in a position to be able to handle net 30?
Net 30 means they have 30 days to make payment from when they receive the order. Any new accounts, I require they give a credit card, but once a customer gets into the re-order status, they will be wanting net 30. If that creates a huge strain on your business cash flow, you may not be ready, because trust me, they will ask for it. I’d say that 90% of my stores are on net 30. Plus side of net 30 is that they usually send a check and you don’t lose 3+% on the transaction. If you do wholesale on a random one here, one there basis, you can probably get away with credit cards for payment. You shouldn’t be charging their card until their order ships. This isn’t your way to get funding to produce the order. They will not be happy if you charge their card and the order ships 3 weeks later. Not a good move.
Do you have the time to handle each account?
Stores can take a good amount of time to maintain. As the number of stores goes up, so does your time devoted to them. If you sell to small boutiques, get ready for fun times getting paid. When I used to sell to a bunch of boutiques, some paid quickly and others were like getting blood from a stone for $250. I would heavily suggest having a credit card on file for them. And, don’t expect that card to always run successfully. I’ve had declined cards more than I can keep count of because of cards running out of state often and you need to make the call and get it sorted out. In my experience, small shops are not the greatest about on time payments and need to be reminded.
The dirty C word - Consignment
If you really want an account and are small, there’s a chance they will offer you consignment. Usually you can negotiate a higher draw since they aren’t putting any money out and you may be able to get 60% of retail instead of 50%. In my experience, consignment rarely works in a way that is worth it. You are not only putting stock that could be used better into a store that may sit unsold, but you are relying on their bookkeeping skills. You need to babysit a consignment account monthly. The very few times I have done consignment when I was a new brand, the only way it worked was by establishing terms and a trial period. For example, you can give the store 30-60 days to have the product on consignment and after that set time, you meet and evaluate if the store will purchase the products instead of consignment. If after 30 days, the store can’t decide, you need to pull your product if it isn’t selling through. If it was selling through, they’d want to buy it to make better margins. My feeling on shops that offer consignment or request it is that their stores will have a more scattered look as they will allow just about anything in to fill the space. This also means they most likely are not making a ton of money if they have to get free product and equates to headaches when it comes time to getting paid. 99% of the time, I would avoid consignment and 100% of the time I would avoid it if it’s not a local shop you can drive to to keep on top of.
What's the upside?
Wholesaling can be a great way to grow your business, but you need to be ready to do it in a way that doesn’t hinder your growth by spreading you too thin. I went from 3 to 100+ stores in 9 months and the growth was amazing, but also pushed me pretty far and pushed my credit card bills initially because I was pre-funding the production runs, knowing I'd get paid in 30-45 days. Growth and expansion cost money and the more coming in, the more that goes out in larger numbers with production, so you should evaluate where you are at financially and if you can handle the timeline of purchasing goods to produce and possible net 30 payment. For a few years, our total sales were split about 50/50 between online direct sales and wholesale. Having our products in stores also led to bumps directly to people in those areas. They'd pick up a shirt and check us out on our site. There is also the general marketing side of having more exposure for the brand. More people will see your name and it can help that organic growth as a brand for recognition.
Washi tape is a light-weight masking tape originally popularized in Japan. It gained popularity with book crafters, but truly has a million uses, from gift wrapping to sewing (mark straight lines without leaving residue!) to even helping one of our employees cut perfectly straight bangs.
Our washi tape comes in 10m long rolls, and in several widths- 10mm, 15mm, 20mm, 30mm, and 32mm (download the design templates here!) You can even get a customized label applied to the roll for extra presentation pizazz!
With many products, different designs have to be priced separately even if they're ordered at the same time. Not so with washi! As long as they're all the same width, you can split an order into multiple designs, making it a very cost-effective product.
Washi tape with silver foil! Foiling can be used alongside CMYK printing.
We also offer foiled washi! Foiling is a method of applying a thin metallic layer to create a design. The set-up requirements and timeframe are a little different for foiled tape, since the process is a bit different.
You can find templates for the different sizes of tape here!
CMYK (not foil)
1. Artwork ideally needs to be in vector (AI, for example) format or Photoshop/PSD. A super high quality png/tiff/jpg/pdf is okay too!
2. If using a raster file format (PSD, jpg, tiff etc), please design the artwork at 400dpi when it is at the finished size. (If it's vector, no need to worry about resolution since it's infinitely scalable!)
3. The repeat length for CMYK washi is 350mm. Make sure to pay attention to the ends of your artwork, since that's where the print will start over again.
4. The art needs a 1.5mm bleed on top and on bottom. For example, if you want 20mm washi tape, design it at 23mm. Our templates have bleed lines marked out, so that's the easiest way to go (just be sure to put your art on a separate layer than the lines!)
5. To be sure that the important parts of your design don't get cut off, we recommend keeping them all at least 1.5mm away from the cut line/3mm away from the outer bleed line. These lines are also marked in our template. No bleed of any sort is needed at the narrow edges of the tape, since the design will repeat.
Foil Washi Tape
1. The resolution, file types and bleed size are the same as for CMYK washi, but the repeat length is 250mm instead of 350mm.
2. Parts of the design that will be foiled need to be at least .15mm thick and need .3mm of breathing room between lines/foiled areas. When designing, try adding a 0.3mm stroke to the outside of your artwork that matches the background tone to give the foil enough space to print cleanly.
3. Please clearly mark which part of the design gets foil and what color foil you'd like (we have lots of options! Regular gold and silver have the fastest turn-around times.)
Embroidered patches with twill background fabric and merrowed edges.
Embroidered Patches:
Traditional embroidered patches can have a twill or felt background with your design rendered in embroidered thread, or the background can be covered in embroidery as well (a good option for designs where there's no clear "background" color.") They are dimensional, highly tactile, and absolutely classic. If the patch is a simple shape like a circle or rectangle, they can do a merrowed edge- a nice effect where the edge stitching wraps all the way around the patch- traditionally, almost all patches were made in simple shapes like these. These days, for more complex shapes, they can use the "hot cut" method, though we can still put stitching around the edge to mimic a merrowed-edge look. For best results, embroidered patches should have bold areas of solid colors (no gradients, shadows, or textures.)
A close-up of the detail on a 100% embroidered patch.
A hot-cut embroidered patch with felt background. Felt isn't used often, but for the right design it can give a great unique look.
Woven Patches:
Woven patches are created with a different manufacturing method, where the design is woven right into the fabric instead of embroidered on top. This results in a flat surface, which can hold smaller details than embroidery. Woven patches can still have an embroidered merrowed edge, if they are a simple shape. Woven patches also need areas of solid color without gradients or shadows, but those areas can be finer and smaller than with embroidery.
A woven patch with merrowed edge
A woven patch with hot-cut edge and metallic gold thread. Detail like this would be tough to achieve cleanly in an embroidered patch.
Photo Transfer Patches:
With embroidered and woven patches, we have to have distinct blocks of color - no gradients, shadows, etc. But with a photo transfer patch, they can literally print just about any image directly onto the fabric! A great option if your art simply won't work with the more traditional methods.
A factory photo of a photo transfer patch (in this case, a painting rather than photo.) Just about anything can be printed onto a patch with this method!
Chenille Patches:
Chenille patches are similar to embroidered patches, but with one significant difference- they're fuzzy! With chenille, it can be easy for detail to get lost in the fluff, so we recommend very bold shapes for the best results.
Fuzzy chenille sheep! The next best thing to the petting farm.
Enamel Keychains
Enamel keychains are designed in the same manner as pins, but with an attachment loop for keyring hardware instead of a backing post. Hardware is included and comes in several styles, in both silver and gold. To check out the full pricing breakdown as well as hardware options, mosey on over to our enamel keychain FAQs here!
Acrylic Charm Keychains
These have been a real hit! Acrylic charms consist of either one later of acrylic board with an epoxy-covered image on top, or two layers of board with the image sandwiched in between. The image can be opaque or translucent, and the acrylic can have one of several holographic sparkle effects. We can even do glitter epoxy on the single-board ones! The hardware comes in several varieties, including the ever-popular heart and star shaped rings. Learn more about acrylic charms here!
Iridescent Acrylic Keychains
Our newest offering, these keychains are laser-cut plastic with a layer of iridescent film that is absolutely gorgeous! They come in pink-toned or blue-toned. An optional epoxy top-coat can help keep the hologram from getting scratched with daily use (and we can even add glitter to it, if one layer of sparkle isn't enough!) You can find the iridescent charms here!
]]>From the people who brought you enamel pins and acrylic keychains comes our latest concoction: acrylic pins! (It was obvious, right?)
Acrylic pins are a great option for art that may not be enamel-pin-friendly (gradients, small details, etc) or just for anyone looking for something new and unique to add to their offerings!
Like the charms, acrylic pins consist of either one layer of acrylic board with an epoxy-covered image on top, or two layers of board with the image sandwiched in between.
An example of translucent printing.
The image can be opaque or translucent, and the acrylic can have one of several holographic sparkle effects, or a top layer of glitter epoxy! The background itself can be clear or white.
Glitter epoxy!
The back of the pins features a safety-pin style clasp, which is more secure on this style of pin than the posts we use for enamel.
Acrylic pins are great for art that might include small details, gradients, shadows, textures, or other elements that don't work well in enamel pins. We can use vector or raster files! For the best results, we recommend working at a nice large file size with a high resolution- aim for 300dpi and twice the size of the pin. Most file types are ok including png(best if you need clear areas), jpeg, psd, vector ai or pdf, etc. All art will be converted to cmyk for printing.
Check them out in the store.
If you'd like to keep an area as clear plastic, just leave it clear in your artwork. If you'd like to use a translucent color, please make sure it is on it's own layer, or if sending a vector file, please let us know which color you'd like to be translucent
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Looking for a lightweight keychain option, or perhaps something that works well with non-enamel-friendly art? We gotcha!
These acrylic charm keychains have been a real hit! Acrylic charms consist of either one layer of acrylic board with an epoxy-covered image on top (or on bottom, if you prefer the acrylic layer over the front and epoxy on back), or two layers of board with the image sandwiched in between. The image itself can be one-sided or two sided.
The most common method is double board and two sided printing.
Board = A piece of plastic.
An example of translucent printing. This is actually an acrylic pin, which is another cool thing we can do with this manufacturing process!
The image can be opaque or translucent, and the acrylic can have one of several holographic sparkle effects. We can even do glitter epoxy on the single-board ones!
A double-sided print, single-board pin with glitter epoxy on the front and shard-holo acrylic on the back! The rainbow-gradient image accentuates the iridescent sparkle.
The hardware comes in several varieties, including the ever-popular heart and star shaped rings.
A double-sided, double-board charm with holo acrylic and a star keyring!
Most people opt for a clear background, but you can do white as well!
Acrylic charms are great for art that might include small details, gradients, shadows, textures, or other elements that don't work well in enamel pins. We can use vector or raster files! For the best results, we recommend working at a nice large file size with a high resolution- aim for 300dpi and twice the size of the finished keychain. Most file types are ok including png(best if you need clear areas), jpeg, psd, vector ai or pdf, etc. All art will be converted to cmyk for printing.
Want to take a closer look? Grab one of our acrylic charm sample packs!
If you'd like to keep an area as clear plastic, just leave it clear in your artwork. If you'd like to use a translucent color, please make sure it is on it's own layer, or if sending a vector file, please let us know which color you'd like to be translucent.
]]>One of our most popular add-ons (for obvious reasons, because it’s awesome) is GLITTER!
Glitter can be added onto hard or soft enamel pins, and comes in a variety of solid colors as well as a translucent, iridescent “rainbow” shade that works well on most enamel colors. But there are a few things to keep in mind, when planning your sparkly masterpiece:
Translucent rainbow glitter is used in every color on this pin
Lowering the density of rainbow glitter in black enamel can make a gorgeous starry effect! The exact results will depend on the human mixing glitter that day, but it's always beautiful, especially in hard enamel.
One of the questions we get most often here at Alchemy is “What is the difference between soft and hard enamel?” The short and most obvious answer is that soft enamel pins have raised outlines, and hard enamel pins do not. With hard enamel, everything is smooth and shiny and flush. Here are a few examples:
Meanwhile, as you can see in these soft enamel pins below, the enamel sits lower than the outlines, making the pin very textured and dimensional.
With hard enamel pins, the whole thing is sanded down flat, so that the enamel and metal are flush. You can read more about the differing manufacturing process here.
Which One is Better for My Pin?
Largely, hard vs soft enamel is a matter of preference, but here are a few things to consider when deciding what’s right for your design:
What About Epoxy?
Epoxy is a type of clear resin that can be put on top of a soft enamel pin to give it a smooth surface, sort of a “faux hard enamel” vibe. We don’t charge to add epoxy to your order, and it can be a good option if you want that smooth look but also want a metal that can’t be done in hard enamel (it’s also nice for keeping glitter in check, as soft enamel glitter can sometimes shed a little.) It’s definitely a different look- sort of a glassy bubble effect- but very cool in it’s own way. Many vintage pins were done this way, so it can give your pin an automatic retro vibe.
What’s the Deal with Printed Pins?
We’ll talk about printed pins in detail in another post, but basically, printing allows us to add details that are too complex for the usual metal/enamel method. Normally, we start with a flat piece of metal that is cut to shape, and then your design is printed on top of it using either a full-color CMYK method (think, the way a magazine is printed) or spot-printed (more of a silkscreened look), depending on your art. Occasionally, if a pin design has just a few too-small details, we can print those details on top of a regular enamel pin (almost always hard enamel, since they need a smooth surface to print on, and it blends in better anyway since printing is flat.)
]]>I Want to Make Some Pins!.... Now What?
So you’ve decided to enter the wonderful world of enamel pins! Or maybe you’ve been a collector for a while, and are looking to check out the other side of the fence. Perhaps you’re looking for a great way to promote your business, brand or create a unique wedding favor. Whatever your motivation, enamel pins are an awesome way to make affordable, wearable art. They have great margins and an easy break even point, making them a low risk and high profit item to sell.
At Alchemy we’ve made over 1.5 million pins, so we’ve got our unique process down. Over the next few posts, we’ll be guiding you step-by-step through everything you need to consider when it comes to making the best pins possible. We’re committed to making sure the end product is something that you’re going to be proud of.
In this first installment, we’re going to take you through the very basics of enamel pin manufacture. Understanding the process is super helpful when you’re creating - or altering - your art (plus, it’s amazing how they are made!)
When a Mold and a Syringe Love Each Other Very Much…
Traditional enamel pins consist of two main parts. The metal framework, and the enamel fill. Think of the metal as a very complicated swimming pool, with metal walls and differently shaped “pools” for each colored area of the pin.
A tray of raw molded metal. In the corner, you can see a set that has already had rose gold plating applied.
When the factory gets the art, the first thing they do is create a mold, which they then use to stamp and cut the metal pieces. For very complex designs, rather than stamping, they melt down a zinc-based metal and pour it into the mold. If necessary, areas that are delicate or narrow are filed by hand. Posts are welded on the back.
Some of the tools used in hand-filing the pins.
With soft enamel pins, the metal is then plated with your color of choice (like gold, silver, copper, black, or any color of the rainbow.) With hard enamel, the plating happens after the coloring step. (We’ll talk more about the differences between the two in a later post.)
Now the “swimming pool” is ready to be filled with liquid enamel! Until recently, all of this was done by hand with tiny syringes. That’s right- each and every teeny, tiny spot in each and every pin! Lately, more and more soft enamel pins are able to be colored by machine, which makes the process quite a bit faster. They can fit enamel into spaces down to about 0.3mm/0.01”. Hard enamel pins are still colored by hand though, which is one reason they can’t really be rushed. Coloring can take several days, since each color needs to cure and harden before the next one is added.
A set of syringes used to color enamel pins. Notice the itty bitty tips!
At this point, soft enamel pins are pretty much done! They get packaged up and sent on their way. Hard enamel still has several steps though - first, they are sanded down to create a flat, smooth, shiny surface where the metal is flush with the enamel. This step is the main difference between hard and soft enamel pins. Then the metal is plated and the whole thing is polished. The materials used in soft and hard enamel are the same, but the process steps are different. Hard enamel cost more because of this additional labor time.
A completed tray of pins, waiting for the enamels to cure.
Think: Tiny Coloring Book
The main take-aways from this process, as far as art preparation is concerned, are these:
If you’re designing from scratch, it will be helpful to keep those things in mind going in, but converting existing art is usually totally do-able too (and definitely a process we can help you with! Don’t hesitate to send us an email- orders@alchemymerch.com.)
Next time, we’ll be diving a little deeper into art preparation and talking about our favorite software for creating pin art!
We get asked this question a lot, and it really comes down to your budget and current ability to sell products. If you are new to making pins or producing products, it probably won’t make sense to get 500 of a pin, or even 200. But if you have been selling items for a while and sell at a lot of events, 200 or 500 can be a great way to reduce your pin per cost and raise your profits. We have pricing listed at the factory breaks on the site, but you are not locked into those tiers only- you can also order 150, 275, 350, etc. (We’ll let you know if you’re super close to a price break!)
For most people starting out, 100 is the sweet spot and a great balance of cost and profits.
You can order 50 pins if you’d like, but generally it does not make a lot of financial sense to do unless you really only need 50 for an event or are unsure that there will be demand for a product and want to test the waters. We set our minimum order quantity (MOQ) at 50, because while the factory will technically make less an 50 of a design, they’d charge as if you ordered 50, so there’s no reason to do that. They need to price based off of labor time and making 25 and 50 takes virtually the same amount of labor.
The way I (Greg) always approach it is to look at the break even point and balance that with my own selling experience. The median price people sell pins for is $10, so it makes the math really easy to figure out. How many pins do I need to sell to break even? You can price your pins at whatever you like, but $10 is easy to calculate.
Here is an example of a simple 2 color black dye pin, to give you an example. Pricing listed on our site includes US shipping and there are never any surprise fees, making it easy to do these calculations.
50 qty: $195 (sell 20 to break even/ 30 additional for profits - $305 profit after selling out)
100 qty: $235 (sell 24 to break even/ 76 additional for profits - $765 profit after selling out)
As you can see, you only need to sell 4 more pins to break even on 100 as on 50, and will have more pins leftover to sell just for profit. This makes 100qty a great starting point.
200 qty: $340 (sell 34 to break even/ 166 additional for profits - $1660 profit after selling out)
500 qty: $575 (sell 58 to break even/ 442 additional for profits - $4425 profit after selling out)
1000 qty: $790 (sell 79 to break even/ 921 additional for profits - $9210 profit after selling out)
We often get asked what it could cost to order 50 now and re-order 50 more later, so I will show the pricing of 50 2x vs 100 upfront using this same kind of design.
50 first time = $195
50 second time = $145 ($50 off because the mold has already been made)
Total investment = $340
100 first time = $235
So if you can spring the extra $40 upfront, you could ultimately save $105.
While you do save some money on a reprint, the cost to ship 50 pins from China vs 100 is about the same, so you are basically paying for two shipments instead of one. In fact, that’s where a large part of the volume discount comes from- shipping things all together is much cheaper than shipping them in smaller batches.
Although this pricing breakdown is based off of a 2 color soft enamel pin with black dye plating, the principle holds for any style of pin. In short: it makes sense to get as many as you think you can sell! And of course, if you only need 50 pins, that’s completely okay! We just can’t help telling everyone about a good bulk bargain <wink>
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Right off the bat, I want to say this - if you’re totally clueless when it comes to graphics software, if you have no idea what a “vector” is, or if “Adobe” brings to mind Southwestern houses… that’s totally okay. In this post, I’m going to run you through a few different ways you can create your art that we can absolutely, totally work from - the best method is whatever one is most comfortable for YOU. We can handle just about anything, so if you aren’t sure, just send it over to us at orders@alchemymerch.com. As long as you can send us some kind of clean file, we can make a vector for you for free! (With one caveat- if your art requires a lot of work to get it to a point where we can make a vector, we may need to charge for art time so our staff artists can re-create the art in a pin-friendly format. Don’t worry, that’s definitely something we’ll discuss with you first!)
Most of the pins we make start as raster images, like this beauty from Kory Bing. As long as the file is large and crisp, rasters work great!
Back to Basics: Drawing By Hand
Yep, believe it or not, we can totally work from a hand-drawn picture! Admittedly, this method gives you a little less control over the final output than some of the others, but it can also be a great way to maintain a hand-done feel in the final pin, which can add a ton of charm. In order to work from a hand drawing, we need a clear, black and white outline only. It’s fine to send a colored version as well (that will help us add color) but in order to create the vector file that we need, we need a good-quality scan or photograph of black ink on white paper, with crisp, not-sketchy lines. Tracing over your existing art onto a new sheet of paper with a nice black pen is usually the easiest thing to do. Once we’ve created the vector, we can easily color in the spaces, like a coloring book. If you don’t have access to a scanner, even a clear cell phone picture will do! (Or you may be able to use one at your local copy shop or library.) We understand that not everyone is familiar with design software, and that’s okay- as long as you can send us clear outlines, we can make it work!
This handsome guy by artist Braden Duncan started out as a traditional paper drawing, inspired by one of her paintings.
Raster Programs: Photoshop, Procreate, etc
If you’re already comfortable in a raster-based graphics program like Photoshop or one of the many drawing apps out there, that’s perfect! We can easily make vectors from those images. Like with hand-drawing, the outlines need to be crisp and not sketchy - and also like hand-drawing, it can be helpful to send an outline without any color. Any sort of “brushy” or watercolor effects won’t translate, so stick to solid blocks of color surrounded by solid outlines. Please remove any effects like a drop shadow, gradients, etc before sending.
Each raster file contains a set number of pixels, which means that while it’s easy to make your work smaller, making it larger means you will lose quality - it will stretch the pixels and blur the details. It’s always best to design larger than you will need (good advice for any product you create!) If you want a 1.5” pin, try designing at around 6” and 300dpi (dots per inch- this refers to the resolution of the piece, and is a setting you can change in your design program).
Placing your Photoshop file or jpg into Illustrator and saving it as a .ai file will not make it a vector, it’s just a raster file sitting inside a vector file. But that’s okay, we can make the vector on our end!
Remember: the outline will be the metal, so consider your metal color as you work! You may not want to use charcoal as a fill color if you’re using black nickel metal, for example, and you won’t get the same contrast with nickel (silver) as you will with black.
The evolution of a pin design! From a sketch, to a digital format and our template… to a finished pin! This design is by our own Tessa aka Starcandy.co
Vector Programs: Adobe Illustrator, Adobe Draw, InkScape or Corel Draw
If you’re already experienced with vector graphics programs, that’s awesome. By all means, send ‘em on over! A few things that make the process a little easier:
This design was drawn in Adobe Draw with an Apple Pencil. Adobe Draw allows you to export images as vectors.
…and here’s the finished pin, in two color variants! Pin by Wild Hunt.
What Doesn’t Work So Well:
If your art is heavy on those things and you really want to keep it that way, there is still an option- printed pins! We’ll talk about those in another post, but for now suffice to say: don’t despair, there is a way!
]]>Glitter comes in 14 standard colors, but can also be mixed to coordinate with whatever Pantone shades you are using. Pure black and pure white are usually best mixed with some rainbow or silver glitter or they’re very subtle (and pretty much disappear entirely in hard enamel.) When used in soft enamel, there will be a gritty texture to the ink, but if used in hard or soft with epoxy, you will not see that texture.
Glitter Gallery
Glow in the dark is done by sprinkling a powder over the inks before being fully cured, and can be used in soft or hard enamel pins. White glow powder glows green, and has barely any effect on the color it’s added to, so it can be added to just about any shade. If using glow in soft enamel, it will give the ink a bit of a gritty texture. In hard enamel or in soft with epoxy, you can't see the texture.
Glow in the Dark Gallery
If you use glow in multiple shades within a pin, you will notice the underlying ink tone playing a role in how it glows.
Blue glow powder, on the other hand, will add a blue tone to whatever it’s mixed into so it’s best used with white (for a pale blue result) or some shade of blue (it will intensify the color.) It’s a little trickier to work with, but it GLOWS BLUE!
Metallic ink currently comes in gold and silver. It’s not high-shine like metal, but it has a subtle shimmery twinkle to it that is just right when full-on glitter would be too much. Pearl ink is only in white and is best used in hard enamel or soft with epoxy. The extra sheen and light reflection really helps it pop.
If you are looking for translucent inks, we have 6-8 set base tones to choose from in hard or soft enamel. Although any color can be mixed for a translucent, it can be a hard ink style to have consistency with, so we advise choosing from the stock colors. Medium to dark tones work best for translucent inks. If the color is too light and has a lot of white in the mix, it can look milky and pretty gross, so we do not suggest using light tones. It also works best if you are using a lighter toned metal such as gold or nickel because we are lowering the opacity of the ink and the darker the background tone, the darker the ink will become. A really fancy trick is to do multi-level molds and have the ink go over flat and recessed areas. You can get multiple tones from one ink.
All of these novelty enamels are surprisingly affordable, adding just $25 per 100 pins (per color) but offering a significant je-ne-sais-quoi to your finished product. Give ‘em a whirl!
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